Lab Grown Versus Natural Diamonds: A Guide To Help You Choose
The custom ring experience usually starts with curating a selection of diamonds for my client, including discussions about lab-grown versus natural diamonds.
Never before have I had to have conversations about what kind of diamond they want, but within the last couple of years, man-made diamonds have made a huge splash within the market.
This guide is a deep dive into lab diamonds to help you make that important decision.
Formation of Natural Diamonds
Natural diamonds are formed deep within the Earth's surface, about 75 to 120 miles.
Over billions of years, intense heat and pressure transform carbon into beautiful, crystalline diamonds, which are then brought closer to the surface through volcanic eruptions. It's truly a remarkable process that showcases the wonder of nature.
Pros and Cons of Natural Diamonds
Pros
Note
The true value of diamonds is often influenced by supply and demand, which diamond industry giants can manipulate.
Cons
What are Lab-Grown Diamonds?
Lab-grown diamonds, also known as synthetic or man-made diamonds, are created in a controlled laboratory environment using advanced technological processes that mimic the natural conditions under which diamonds form in the Earth’s crust.
These diamonds have the same physical, chemical, and optical properties as natural diamonds, making them virtually indistinguishable to the naked eye. However, their origin sets them apart, and understanding this process provides insight into why they are becoming increasingly popular.
A lab-grown diamond is a diamond that's been created in a laboratory setting rather than naturally grown in the earth over billions of years.
The lab imitates the exact same pressure, temperature, and chemical vapor deposition needed for a diamond to form, except it's in a controlled environment.
The outcome is the exact same: a diamond that is 100% crystallized carbon. Therefore, the only difference is the diamond's origin.
Formation of Lab-Grown Diamonds
High-Pressure High Temperature (HPHT): This method involves placing a carbon source in a pressurized chamber and exposing it to temperatures above 1,500 degrees Celsius and pressures of about 1.5 million pounds per square inch. Under these conditions, the carbon atoms arrange themselves into a diamond crystal structure, creating a synthetic diamond that is chemically and physically identical to a natural one.
Chemical Vapor Deposition (CVD): In the CVD method, a small diamond seed is placed in a vacuum chamber filled with carbon-rich gases. The gases are ionized into plasma, causing carbon atoms to precipitate onto the seed, layer by layer, forming a diamond crystal.
This method allows for greater control over the diamond’s growth environment, often resulting in higher purity and fewer inclusions compared to HPHT diamonds.
Pros and Cons of Lab-Grown Diamonds
Lab-grown diamonds are becoming more popular, and it’s easy to see why. Let’s break down some of the key pros and cons.
Pros
Cons
Are Lab Created Diamonds Real Diamonds?
A lab-created diamond is a real diamond because it has the same optical, physical, and chemical properties as a diamond. They are both made of pure carbon. But is a lab diamond identical to mined diamonds? No.
The Federal Trade Commission (FTC) acknowledges that lab-grown diamonds are real diamonds but warns that retailers and marketers are obligated to disclose that a diamond was created in a lab.
Jewelers are required to distinguish the type of diamond because of such disparities in price.
5 Ways To Identify Lab-Grown Diamonds
1 - The Diamond Grade Report
Your jeweler will provide an independent grading report on the diamond, which will clearly state whether it's a lab-grown diamond or natural.
There should be no ambiguity here because natural and lab-grown diamonds are graded using the same four C's criteria: diamond cut, color, clarity, and carat weight.
2 - The Inscription
Holding a magnifying glass over the widest part of a diamond, which is called the girdle, you'll often find an inscription there.
3 - Diamond Prices
While this is not an official way, some clients have come to me saying they're seeing prices online for two to three-carat rings that seem too good to be true. Then they look closer and it says "lab-grown."
You're not going to find a three-carat natural diamond in colorless VVS quality for $15,000.
If this type of pricing is what you're seeing, you can likely assume it's lab-grown or something other than a natural diamond.
When researching diamonds, some might advise using the price of a diamond simply to flag whether or not it's lab-grown, but it's not always cut and dry.
4 - UV Screening to Look for Fluorescence
A mined diamond shows up blue under UV light, while a lab-grown diamond looks red. Using UV light to check for fluorescence is one of the easiest ways to tell the difference between earth-mined and lab-created diamonds.
Here's a simple explanation: natural diamonds contain traces of the element boron, while lab-grown diamonds do not. When you shine a UV light on a natural diamond, the boron atoms get excited and emit blue light, called fluorescence. Lab-created diamonds without any boron don't fluoresce blue under UV light; they might emit a weak red, yellow, or green glow instead.
If you shine a UV flashlight on a diamond and it glows blue, it's a natural diamond. If it doesn't glow blue or fluoresces another color, it's likely a lab-grown diamond.
The blue fluorescence is usually fairly obvious under UV light; no special equipment is needed.
However, not all natural diamonds will be strongly fluorescent. Just know that if it does fluoresce blue, it's definitively natural because no lab-grown diamond will fluoresce blue. It's an easy, affordable way for jewelers to tell the difference.
As lab-grown diamonds become more popular, you'll see more jewelers using UV fluorescence testing.
5 - Scan the Stone with an Infrared Spectrometer
The diamond screener tests for type 2A diamonds, which are chemically very pure—very rare in a natural diamond.
One hundred percent of lab-grown diamonds are type 2A, while only roughly 2% of natural diamonds are type 2A. This indicator won't give you a definitive answer, but it does point you in the right direction.
Current testers are generally just screening devices, so if an infrared scan shows the diamond is type 2A, it's a strong indication that it could be lab-grown, but it's not definitive by itself.
If a client believes that it's natural, the next step would be to submit the diamond to a reputable laboratory, such as GIA, for more conclusive testing on its origin.
Price Comparison
Lab-grown diamonds offer a significant discount compared to mined diamonds. The savings can be so substantial that it's hard not to get carried away thinking about what you could do with all the extra money you'll be saving.
Lab diamonds are significantly lower priced; they often run 80-95% less than mined diamonds.
The difference can be tens of thousands of dollars, and in some cases of 4 carats and above, the difference can be six figures. Lab diamonds are definitely a game-changer.
Historically, mined diamonds have held more value in the diamond market, but it's essential to understand the difference between retail value and resale value.
The true value of diamonds is often influenced by supply and demand, which giants in the diamond industry can manipulate.
Ultimately, it's important to remember that diamonds, whether natural or lab-grown, are not a financial investment—they're an emotional one. We purchase these stones to express our devotion and commitment to the people we love.
Unless you possess an exceptionally rare diamond, which can be amazing, you can expect to lose a significant portion of its value when reselling. Both lab-grown and natural diamonds have their place in the market, and the choice ultimately comes down to your personal preferences and priorities.
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Quality and Grading Comparison
The Four Cs:
Both lab-grown and mined diamonds are graded based on the Four Cs: Carat weight, Cut, Color, and Clarity grades. These criteria are established by reputable organizations such as the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) and the International Gemological Institute (IGI).
Due to their controlled creation process, lab diamonds often exhibit higher quality in terms of color, cut, and clarity than many mined diamonds.
This allows for fewer inclusions, more consistent crystal structures, and better precision in cutting.
While high-quality natural diamonds exist, they are rarer and typically more expensive. The unique characteristics and natural formation process of mined diamonds, however, still hold significant appeal for many buyers.
Environmental Impact Comparison
Lab-grown diamonds generally have a lower environmental impact compared to mined diamonds. They avoid extensive land disturbance, ecosystem disruption, and water pollution associated with mining.
Although lab-grown diamonds require significant energy, their carbon footprint can be lower, especially when renewable energy is used. In contrast, diamond mining involves high carbon emissions, significant land use, and substantial water usage and pollution.
Lab-grown diamonds generally have a lower environmental impact compared to mined diamonds.
Ethical Considerations Comparison
Lab diamonds generally have a lower environmental impact compared to mined diamonds. They avoid extensive land disturbance, ecosystem disruption, and water pollution associated with mining.
Although lab-created diamonds require significant energy, their carbon footprint can be lower, especially when renewable energy is used. In contrast, diamond mining involves high carbon emissions, significant land use, and substantial water usage and pollution.
Additionally, lab diamonds often bypass the ethical labor concerns associated with mining, such as poor working conditions and exploitation in some regions.
This makes lab created diamonds a more ethically responsible choice for many consumers.
The Debate: Lab-Grown vs Natural Diamonds
I had a client vehemently opposed to lab-grown diamonds, and then at the same time I have a client who is absolutely thrilled about creating her engagement ring with the lab-grown.
It’s like there’s this camp on one side that’s singing praises, and some don’t care where it came from; they just want the diamond. Then there are some who are totally on the fence about how they feel, especially if they have the budget for a natural diamond but wonder if it makes sense to pay less for a lab diamond.
Jewelry Industry Perspective
Some Jewelers say they are identical because they are visually identical to both trained and untrained eyes.
Technically, they’re not identical if lab equipment can tell them apart.
Many retailers are taking advantage of consumer's lack of awareness and burying disclosures in fine print.
There has to be a distinction made with every client about what type of diamond they prefer so they’ll be informed about what type of diamond they’ll be purchasing.
This is going to be the first generation that has not grown up hearing the "A diamond is forever" campaign. They just weren't taught to love them the same way that marketing taught previous generations.
This is also the first generation to see huge diamonds at such a low price point. Are they still special? Is it going to make them feel special because there's nothing to upgrade to in the future after 20 years if you're already starting out with a three—or four-carat diamond on your finger?
Consumer Perspective
I had a client who was vehemently opposed to lab diamonds, but she was also absolutely thrilled about having her diamond engagement ring created with a lab-made diamond.
Some people love the idea of an engagement ring with a lab diamond, while others have told me they prefer to have an earth-mined diamond for their engagement ring specifically since it was grown on the earth billions of years ago.
It's the rarity factor that makes them ideal for engagement and wedding rings. They're okay with lab diamonds for other fine jewelry, such as earrings and necklaces.
There’s a camp on one side that’s singing praises, and some don’t care where it came from; they just want the diamond. Then there are some who are totally on the fence about how they feel, especially if they have the budget for a natural diamond but wonder if it makes sense to pay less for a lab diamond.
Some people love the idea of an engagement ring with a lab-grown diamond, while others have told me they prefer to have the natural counterpart for their engagement ring specifically since it was grown on the earth billions of years ago. They're okay with lab diamonds for other jewelry, such as earrings and necklaces.
How to Choose Between Lab-Grown and Natural Diamonds
Expert Opinions
Regardless of how the diamond was formed, diamond curation is key when it comes to a meaningful diamond ring. Using expert advice to your advantage is important because this is her engagement ring.
An interesting factor that may result from the introduction of lab diamonds may very well be a change in perception of what a diamond represents.
In years past, people associated large diamonds with high monetary value. It was something to aspire to wear one day.
Now, with the price point being lower and lower, women don't hold them up on a pedestal like they used to.
Many believe diamond jewelry primarily acts as a beautiful adornment and a powerful representation of love, life, and relationships.
Not all diamonds are the same, even if they have the same specs on the grade report.
Diamond Simulants: Cubic Zirconia and Moissanite
It’s important to note that a lab-made diamond is not to be confused with diamond simulants like cubic zirconia or lab-made moissanite, which are types of diamonds but have completely different chemical compositions from an actual diamond while also being created in a lab.
The reason I mention this is that jewelers have heard about consumers purchasing what they thought was a lab diamond, only to find out later that it was a moissanite or cubic zirconia.
Conclusion: Lab-Grown vs. Natural Diamonds
Making Your Decision
From my perspective, as the diamond setter who makes custom diamond rings, one diamond isn't better than the other in terms of an engagement ring. They simply have a different origin story because I'm going to make a gorgeous custom setting for it either way, no matter where it came from—the earth or in a lab.
Regardless of whether it's a smaller stone that's mined or one that's lab-made, your engagement ring should be filled with that love and joy that you experience when you open that jewelry box.
A diamond doesn't say anything about who you are as a person. It literally is just a thought and a feeling, and you don't have to let that define you regarding what this ring represents.
Final Thoughts
If you’re looking for a diamond ring, whether it’s lab or natural, feel free to reach out to my studio.
I would love to create one for you, and I’ll help you select an absolutely gorgeous one because, as a diamond setter, it honestly doesn’t matter to me which one you choose because I’m going to make a gorgeous setting for it either way.